Stones with translucency that feature visible inclusions have come to be known as Salt & Pepper Diamonds. Where an ideal, colourless Diamond is identical to every other ideal colourless Diamond, the mixture of black, white, brown, and sometimes coloured inclusions makes each Salt & Pepper Diamond truly unique.

 
Salt & Pepper Diamonds range from near-white with scattered pepper inclusions to densely patterned stones with complex internal landscapes. They can be very translucent, semi-translucent, or even opaque and milky in tone.

 
Best for:

• Those seeking one-of-a-kind engagement rings
• Couples who value character over traditional perfection
• Larger centre stones within budget
• Rings with organic, textural metalwork

Considerations:

• More affordable than traditional Diamonds of the same carat weight
• Each stone is completely unique
• Heavier inclusions create natural stress points (though still very durable at hardness 10)
• Best set in protective settings like bezels or secure prongs

Within the spectrum of included Diamonds, stones with warm earth tones have become particularly sought after for their organic beauty.

Look out for terms like Rustic Brown, Cinnamon and Desert Diamonds to describe a spectrum of included Champagne, Brown, Orange and Red Diamonds. These stones capture warm, earthy palettes—from pale sand to deep terracotta—and often feature organic patterns of inclusions that add distinctive character.

 
Best for:

• Those drawn to warm, earthy colour palettes
• Rings with geological or natural aesthetic
• Unique centre stones with depth and movement
• Pairing with Yellow Gold or Rose Gold

Considerations:

• Offer the same durability as all Diamonds (hardness 10)
• Extremely affordable compared to colourless Diamonds
• Each stone tells its own visual story through colour and inclusion patterns

For Black Diamonds, it is clarity rather than colour that creates their appearance. Most natural Black Diamonds get their deep opacity from large quantities or clouds of mineral inclusions that extend throughout the stone.
 
Natural Black Diamonds may be heat-treated to enhance their overall appearance. Treated Black Diamonds are typically completely opaque with a high lustre that gives them an almost metallic quality. Heat treatment is a common and acceptable gemmological practice.
 

Best for:

• Dramatic, high-contrast jewellery
• Those seeking bold, unconventional aesthetic
• Pairing with White Gold or Sterling Silver for maximum contrast
• Statement engagement rings

Considerations:

• More affordable than traditional diamonds
• Heat treatment is common
• Almost or completely opaque with metallic lustre
• Extremely durable for everyday wear

Champagne, Chocolate, Cognac, Vivid Yellow—these terms describe diamonds with fancy natural colour but traditional clarity. Unlike Salt & Pepper or Black Diamonds where inclusions create the appearance, these stones derive their hue from trace elements or structural variations within the crystal itself.

Fancy Grey Diamonds contain hydrogen as an "impurity" element, creating their silvery-grey appearance. These stones range from light silver to deep charcoal, offering sophisticated alternatives to traditional White Diamonds.

Fancy White Diamonds display a milky white colour and sometimes show beautiful opalescent flashes. These ethereal stones have a soft, dreamy quality entirely different from the icy brilliance of colourless Diamonds.

Some fancy coloured diamonds are genuinely rare. Pink Diamonds from the famous Argyle mine in Western Australia, which produced over 90% of the world's Pink Diamonds, are exceptionally rare. The mine closed in November 2020 when the supply had been exhausted.

 
Best for:

• Those seeking a more subtle departure from traditional diamonds
• Creating a dynamic juxtaposition against rugged geological textures
• Soft, romantic aesthetic
• Great for all metal pairings but particularly effervescent in cool-toned metal

Lab-Grown Diamonds (also called laboratory-created, cultured, or synthetic Diamonds) are produced in controlled laboratory environments using advanced technological processes that replicate the conditions under which natural Diamonds form in the Earth's mantle.
 

Chemical and Physical Properties:

Lab-Grown Diamonds are chemically, physically, and optically identical to natural Diamonds. They are pure carbon with the same crystal structure, hardness (10 on the Mohs scale), and light performance. They cannot be distinguished from natural Diamonds without specialised equipment.
 

Current Technology:

The technology for creating Lab-Grown Diamonds continues to advance rapidly. Whilst traditionally Lab-Grown Diamonds were produced primarily in colourless and near-colourless grades, the range of options is expanding. Lab-Grown Fancy Coloured Diamonds are increasingly available, and recently even Salt & Pepper Lab-Grown Diamonds have entered the market, offering included character stones at accessible price points.
 

Considerations:

Lab-Grown Diamonds are typically significantly less expensive than natural Diamonds of equivalent size and quality. For those working within budget constraints or who prefer laboratory-created stones for environmental or ethical reasons, they offer identical durability and beauty to natural Diamonds.

 
The resale value of Lab-Grown Diamonds is lower than natural Diamonds, as there is no shortage of supply. This may or may not be relevant depending on your perspective on engagement ring jewellery as heirloom or investment.
 

My approach:

Whilst I hold a personal affinity for natural, earth-formed minerals, I work with what feels right for each client's values and vision, without preference either way.

Salt & Pepper Diamonds are natural Diamonds with visible inclusions of black, white, grey and sometimes brown minerals. These inclusions create unique internal patterns, making each stone completely distinctive. Unlike traditional Diamonds which are valued for clarity, Salt & Pepper Diamonds celebrate their inclusions as part of their beauty.

es, absolutely. Salt & Pepper Diamonds are natural Diamonds with the same chemical composition (pure carbon) and hardness (10 on the Mohs scale) as traditional colourless Diamonds. The difference is that they contain visible inclusions rather than being internally flawless.

Most Black Diamonds available for jewellery are heat-treated to enhance their colour and create the deep, opaque black appearance. This is a standard and accepted practice in the jewellery industry. Treatment should always be disclosed by your jeweller.

Terms like Desert Diamonds describe a spectrum of included Champagne, Brown, Orange and Red Diamonds. These warm-toned stones capture earth colours reminiscent of desert landscapes and offer a distinctive alternative to traditional White Diamonds.

Yes. All Diamonds—traditional and non-traditional—have a Mohs hardness of 10, making them exceptionally durable for everyday wear. Whilst heavily included Diamonds (Salt & Pepper, Black, Desert) may be slightly more brittle than flawless stones, they are still excellent choices for engagement rings with proper care and secure settings.

Salt & Pepper Diamonds, Black Diamonds, and Desert Diamonds are typically significantly more affordable than traditional White Diamonds of the same carat weight, as they don't meet conventional clarity standards. This makes them an excellent choice for those seeking larger centre stones within a budget.

Inclusions do create natural stress points, but Diamonds are so hard that breakage is extremely rare with normal wear. The key is ensuring your stone is set securely in a protective setting designed for its specific characteristics. I design all settings with the stone's unique properties in mind.

Yes, though bezel settings or settings with protective prongs are recommended for heavily included stones. I design all settings with the specific stone's characteristics in mind to ensure both beauty and security.

Lab-Grown Diamonds have identical chemical composition and hardness to natural Diamonds but are created in controlled laboratory conditions. I work primarily with natural Diamonds, including non-traditional varieties that cannot be replicated in labs. Lab-Grown Diamonds can be sourced on request for specific projects.

Yes, I can source Lab-Grown Diamonds for bespoke commissions. The technology has expanded significantly in recent years, with options now including Fancy Coloured and even Salt & Pepper Lab-Grown Diamonds.